Dog Training

Foods You Should Not Feed Your Dogs

2008-08-30T09:11:00.001-07:00

Q : Which foods could be dangerous for my dog?
A: Some foods which are edible for humans, and even other species of animals, can pose hazards for dogs because of their different metabolism. Some may cause only mild digestive upsets, whereas, others can cause severe illness, and even death. The following common food items should not be fed (intentionally or unintentionally) to dogs. This list is, of course, incomplete because we can not possibly list everything your dog should not eat.
Alcoholic beverages
Can cause intoxication, coma, and death.
Baby food
Can contain onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs. (Please see onion below.) Can also result in nutritional deficiencies, if fed in large amounts.
Bones from fish, poultry, or other meat sources
Can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.
Cat food
Generally too high in protein and fats.
Chocolate, coffee, tea, and other caffeine
Contain caffeine, theobromine, or theophylline, which can be toxic and affect the heart and nervous systems.
Link : [Article]Chocolate VS Dogs
Citrus oil extracts
Can cause vomiting.
Link :[Article]Citrus Oil
Fat trimmings
Can cause pancreatitis.
Grapes and raisins
Contain an unknown toxin, which can damage the kidneys. There have been no problems associated with grape seed extract.
Link : [Article] Raisin and Grape Toxicity in Dogs
Hops
Unknown compound causes panting, increased heart rate, elevated temperature, seizures, and death.
Human vitamin supplements containing iron
Can damage the lining of the digestive system and be toxic to the other organs including the liver and kidneys.

Large amounts of liver
Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
Macadamia nuts
Contain an unknown toxin, which can affect the digestive and nervous systems and muscle.
Marijuana
Can depress the nervous system, cause vomiting, and changes in the heart rate.
Milk and other dairy products
Some adult dogs and cats do not have sufficient amounts of the enzyme lactase, which breaks down the lactose in milk. This can result in diarrhea. Lactose-free milk products are available for pets.
Moldy or spoiled food, garbage
Can contain multiple toxins causing vomiting and diarrhea and can also affect other organs.
Mushrooms
Can contain toxins, which may affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
Onions and garlic (raw, cooked, or powder)
Contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs. Garlic is less toxic than onions.
Persimmons
Seeds can cause intestinal obstruction and enteritis.
Pits from peaches and plums
Can cause obstruction of the digestive tract.

Potato, rhubarb, and tomato leaves; potato and tomato stems
Contain oxalates, which can affect the digestive, nervous, and urinary systems. This is more of a problem in livestock.
Raw eggs
Contain an enzyme called avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may also contain Salmonella.
Raw fish
Can result in a thiamine (a B vitamin) deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and in severe cases, death. More common if raw fish is fed regularly.
Salt
If eaten in large quantities it may lead to electrolyte imbalances.
String
Can become trapped in the digestive system; called a "string foreign body."
Sugary foods
Can lead to obesity, dental problems, and possibly diabetes mellitus.
Table scraps (in large amounts)
Table scraps are not nutritionally balanced. They should never be more than 10% of the diet. Fat should be trimmed from meat; bones should not be fed.
Tobacco
Contains nicotine, which affects the digestive and nervous systems. Can result in rapid heart beat, collapse, coma, and death.
Yeast dough
Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and possible rupture of the stomach or intestines.

Source: http://www.peteducation.com

Still, Dog Vaccination

2008-05-25T05:20:00.001-07:00

DOG VACCINATION SCHEDULE:

Age 6 & 9 weeks: 5 way (plus Coronavirus if prevalent in your area), Bordetella*.
Age 12 & 15 weeks: 7 way (plus Coronavirus & Lyme if prevalent in your area), Rabies, Bordetella.
Adult (annual booster): 7 way (plus Coronavirus & Lyme if prevalent in your area), Rabies, Bordetella.

5 way dog vaccines include Distemper, Parvovirus, Adenovirus, Hepatitis, and Parainfluenza.
Adding Coronavirus makes it a 6 way vaccine.

7 way dog vaccines include Distemper, Parvovirus, Adenovirus, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, and 2 strains of Lepto.

Adding Coronavirus makes it an 8 way vaccine.
*Note: Age of vaccination varies depending on manufacturer.

Understanding your dog's body condition

2008-05-24T07:09:00.001-07:00

And also a good link for your dog's daily calories need :
http://www.mycockerspaniel.com/mer.htm

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Dog to Dog Introductions

2008-05-22T06:52:00.001-07:00

Adding a new canine companion to a home with a dog can be great fun and offer extra companionship for both your dog and your family.
The dogs need time to build a good relationship.
The following tips are suggestions for safety and will help the relationship get off to a great start.
Introduce the dogs outside your home in a neutral area.
Take a short walk in the neighborhood, or at a park nearby.
Pick up all toys, chews, bones, food bowls, and the resident dog’s favorite items.
When dogs are creating a relationship these items (resources) may cause rivalry. They can be introduced after a couple of weeks.
It is very important to avoid quarrels during these early stages of the “sibling” relationship.
Also, you must double your supply of water dishes, food dishes, dog beds, and dog toys.
- Do give your new dog his/her own confinement area
- Do keep all dog play and socializing positive and brief. This will help avoid over-stimulation or quarrels which may erupt with overly rough or extended play
- Do feed dogs in separate areas, completely closed off from one another
- Do spend time with each dog individually
- Do keep dogs separate when you cannot supervise interactions
- Do supervise dogs when around family members, toys or resting areas
- Do use a “Happy Praising Voice” whenever the dogs are having positive interactions.
- Do use a “Strong Voice” to interrupt any growling or bully type behavior. -Use a phrase such as “Too Bad” and separate the “bully-dog” to a different area for a few minutes then try again.
DON’T give chews, rawhides, or bones (even if each dog has his/her own) when dogs are together.
Wait several weeks, please!
The dogs should enjoy these fun chews but only when they are separated, in their own crate or individual confinement area.
DON’T use your hands or body to intervene during a dog quarrel.
Use your voice, a loud noise or water to stop the fight.
If the dogs do not stop, use a chair or other large object to insert in between
them, or pull them apart by the rear legs or tail to separate.
Be aware that, when dogs are fighting, they are highly aroused and it
is never safe to use your hands to attempt separation.

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More about Dog Vaccination Schedule

2008-05-19T20:37:00.000-07:00

Dog Vaccination Schedule
all dogs require vaccinations for these and possibly several other types of diseases:
Rabies: Some states require rabies revaccination every 3 years.
Parvovirus: After the first vaccination, an injection at 20 weeks is sometimes needed.
Hepatitis: Protects against canine adenovirus type I and II.
Six to Eight Weeks:
* Bordetella
* Distemper/Corona vaccine
* Hepatitis
* Parainfluenza
* Parvovirus
* Intestinal parasite screen
* Heartworm preventive pill
* Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
Ten to Twelve Weeks:
* Intranasai Bordatella vaccine
* Hepatitis
* Leptospirosis
* Parainfluenza
* Parvovirus
* Distemper/Corona vaccine
* Intestinal parasite screen
* Heartworm preventive pill
* Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
* Lyme disease vaccine (only for dogs at high risk)
Fourteen to Sixteen Weeks:
* Distemper vaccine
* One-year Rabies vaccine
* Bordetella
* Hepatitis
* Leptospirosis
* Parainfluenza
* Parvovirus
* Lyme disease vaccine (only for dogs at high risk)
* Strategic de-worming (for intestinal parasites)
* Heartworm preventive pill

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16 Common Dog Myths

2008-05-19T05:21:00.001-07:00

Dogs should have a litter before they are spayed.
This is not true. Dogs that have a litter before they are spayed are not better for it in any way. In fact, spayed dogs are at lower risk for breast cancer and uterine infections.
Dogs are sick when their noses are warm.
The temperature of a dogs nose does not indicate health or illness or if they have a fever. There is an "old wives tale" that cold wet noses indicate health. And Warm or dry noses indicate a fever or illness. The only accurate method to access a dog's temperature is to take it with a thermometer. Normal dog temperature is 100.5 to 102.5 degrees F.
Mutts are always healthier than purebred dogs.
This is not true. Both mutts and purebred dogs can be unhealthy. Both can have diseases, however, mutts generally do not have many of the genetic diseases common in purebred lines.
All dogs like to be petted on their heads.
Some dogs do like to be petted on their heads but many do NOT.
Happy dogs wag their tails.
This may be true but aggressive dogs often wag their tails too. There are several physical body motions and cues that help dogs to communicate their intent. A wagging tail can mean agitation or excitement. A dog that wags his tail slowly and moves his all rear end or crouches down in the classic "play bow" position is usually a friendly wag. Tails that are wagged when held higher, twitches or wagging while held over the back may be associated with aggression.
Only male dogs will "hump" or lift their leg to urinate.
This is not true. Female dogs, especially dominant female dogs, will lift their leg to urinate and "hump" other dogs or objects. This can be true even if they are spayed.
Table scraps are good for dogs.
Some table scraps such as bones and pieces of fat can be dangerous to some pets. They may not digest the bones and the fat may cause gastrointestinal problems such as pancreatitis.
Garlic prevents fleas.
Garlic has not been proven to be helpful for flea control. Large amounts of garlic can even be harmful.
Household "pet dogs" don't need to be trained.
This is not true. Every dog should be trained.
Dogs eat grass when they are sick.
Dog descended from wild wolves and foxes that ate all parts of their "kill." This included the stomach contents of many animals that ate berries and grass. Many scientists believe grass was once part of their normal diet and eating small amounts is normal.
Dogs like tasty food.
Dogs have very poor taste buds and eat primarily based on their sense of smell.
Licking is Healing.
It is natural for a dog to lick its wound but this not necessarily always "healing." Too much licking can actually prohibit healing.
Dogs will let you know when they are sick.
This is not true. Dogs generally are very good at hiding that they are sick by survival instinct, thus not to appear vulnerable to "prey." Often by the time they show you that they are sick, their disease or condition is quite advanced.
Dogs that are mostly indoors don't need heartworm prevention.
This is not true. Indoor pets are also at risk for heartworm disease. Heartworm disease is spread by mosquitoes which can come inside.
Dogs eat rocks, lick concrete or eat their or another animals stools because of nutrient imbalances.
No one knows why dogs eat "stuff" that they shouldn't eat. Some veterinarians believe that some dogs that eat "things" may be trying to get attention or acting out of boredom. It is important for dogs to eat a well balanced diet that will fulfill their dietary and nutrient requirements.
Dogs don't need to housebroken--they naturally know where to go.
Oh, if only this were true. You need to train your dog on where to go. This preferably happens when you start young and give him positive encouragement for jobs well done.

#-----------D-O-G-'-S--M-Y-T-H-----------#
source : http://www.PetPlace.com

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Vaccination Schedule

2008-05-19T05:19:00.001-07:00

Vaccination Schedule for Dogs
From: The Humane Society

Distemper - an airborne viral disease of the lungs, intestines and brain.
Hepatitis - a viral disease of the liver.
Leptospirosis - a bacterial disease of the urinary system.
Parainfluenza - infectious bronchitis.
Parvovirus - a viral disease of the intestines.
Rabies - a viral disease fatal to humans and other animals.
Corona - a viral disease of the intestines.
Bordetella - a bacterial infection (kennel cough)

Puppies - 6 weeks to 1 year

6 to 8 weeks - First puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
11 to 12 weeks - Second puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
15 to 16 weeks - Third puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
Over 4 months - Rabies (repeat l year later)
7 to 9 months - First heartworm test

Adult Dogs - After 1 year

DHLPP - Yearly
Heartworm test - Yearly
Rabies - Every 3 years (after second Rabies shot)
Bordetella - Yearly

Note: Some states have their own laws regarding the frequency & requirement of certain vaccinations. When in
doubt, always ask your veterinarian or local humane society.

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Vaccination Schedule

2008-05-16T05:55:00.001-07:00

Vaccination Schedule for Dogs
From: The Humane Society

Distemper - an airborne viral disease of the lungs, intestines and brain.
Hepatitis - a viral disease of the liver.
Leptospirosis - a bacterial disease of the urinary system.
Parainfluenza - infectious bronchitis.
Parvovirus - a viral disease of the intestines.
Rabies - a viral disease fatal to humans and other animals.
Corona - a viral disease of the intestines.
Bordetella - a bacterial infection (kennel cough)

Puppies - 6 weeks to 1 year

6 to 8 weeks - First puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
11 to 12 weeks - Second puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
15 to 16 weeks - Third puppy shot (DHLPP) + Corona
Over 4 months - Rabies (repeat l year later)
7 to 9 months - First heartworm test

Adult Dogs - After 1 year

DHLPP - Yearly
Heartworm test - Yearly
Rabies - Every 3 years (after second Rabies shot)
Bordetella - Yearly

Note: Some states have their own laws regarding the frequency & requirement of certain vaccinations. When in
doubt, always ask your veterinarian or local humane society.

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Why You Should Spay or Neuter Your Pet

2008-05-15T09:02:00.001-07:00

What do "spay" and "neuter" really mean?

Female dogs and cats are spayed by removing their reproductive organs, and male dogs and cats are neutered by removing their testicles. In both cases the operation is performed while the pet is under anesthesia. Depending on your pet's age, size, and health, he or she will stay at your veterinarian's office for a few hours or a few days. Depending upon the procedure, your pet may need stitches removed after a few days. Your veterinarian can fully explain spay and neuter procedures to you and discuss with you the best age at which to sterilize your pet.

Spaying or Neutering Is Good for Your Pet

Spaying and neutering helps dogs and cats live longer, healthier lives.
Spaying and neutering can eliminate or reduce the incidence of a number of health problems that can be very difficult or expensive to treat.
Spaying eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer and greatly reduces the incidence of breast cancer, particularly when your pet is spayed before her first estrous cycle.
Neutering eliminates testicular cancer and decreases the incidence of prostate disease.

Spaying or Neutering Is Good for You

Spaying and neutering makes pets better, more affectionate companions.
Neutering cats makes them less likely to spray and mark territory.
Spaying a dog or cat eliminates her heat cycle. Estrus lasts an average of six to 12 days, often twice a year, in dogs and an average of six to seven days, three or more times a year, in cats.
Females in heat can cry incessantly, show nervous behavior, and attract unwanted male animals.
Unsterilized animals often exhibit more behavior and temperament problems than do those who have been spayed or neutered.
Spaying and neutering can make pets less likely to bite.
Neutering makes pets less likely to roam the neighborhood, run away, or get into fights.

Spaying and Neutering Are Good for the Community

Communities spend millions of dollars to control unwanted animals.
Irresponsible breeding contributes to the problem of dog bites and attacks.
Animal shelters are overburdened with surplus animals.
Stray pets and homeless animals get into trash containers, defecate in public areas or on private lawns, and frighten or anger people who have no understanding of their misery or needs.
Some stray animals also scare away or kill birds and wildlife.

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>Top Ten (10) Most Dangerous Dog Breeds<

2008-05-14T09:23:00.001-07:00

All dogs can be potentially dangerous, however some dogs are more dangerous than others.
Various types of breeds can be considerably stronger and larger than a person of average size.
Training, socialization and proper care can make a significant impact, however some dogs are by years of breeding more aggressive.
After in depth research and analyzing the studies performed by the American Veterinary Medical Association, the CDC, and the Humane Society of the United States, we have compiled the top ten most dangerous dog breeds.

10. Dalmatian

Dalmatians are very protective dogs and can be aggressive towards humans. They are very active and need lots of exercise. They have very sensitive natures and an excellent memory. This bred is famed for their intelligence, indepedence, and survival instincts.

Weight: 40-70 lbs.
Origin: Yugoslavia

9. Boxer

Unlike their name suggest, these dogs are not typically aggressive by nature. They are bright, energetic and playful breed. Boxers have been known to be "headstrong", which makes it a bit difficult to train them but with positive reinforcement techniques, Boxers often respond much better.

Weight: 50-70 lbs.
Origin: Germany

8. Presa Canario

Originally bred to guard and fight with cattle, an attack by this dog has been described as hopeless for the victim. They are a guardian breed with man-stopping ability, incredible power and a complete lack of fear.

Weight: 80-115 lbs.
Origin: Canary Islands

7. Chow Chow

These dogs can be aggressive if poorly bred. The Chow Chow may appear to be independent and aloof for much of the day but needs constant reinforcement.

Weight: 50-70 lbs.
Origin: China

6. Doberman Pinschers

Dobermans are great guard dogs for their alertness, intelligence and loyalty. They can be agressive dogs when provoked. The typical pet Doberman attacks only if it believes that it, its property, or its family are in danger.

Weight: 65-90 lbs.
Origin: Germany

5. Alaskan Malamutes

These dogs are very energetic and active. If they are bored, they can become destructive. That's why this dog needs lots of exercise to be happy.

Weight: 75-100 lbs.
Origin: Nordic

4. Huskies

Very energetic and intelligent dogs. Not considered a good guard dog because of its personality characteristics and gentle temperament. A 2000 study of dog bites resulting in human fatalities in the U.S. found fifteen such fatalities (6% of the total) were caused by "husky-type" dogs between 1979 and 1997.

Weight: 44-66 lbs.
Origin: Alaska

3. German Shepherds

These dogs are intelligent and very alert. They are highly used by local authorities such as the police K-9 unit. German shepherds are known to be fearless and confident dogs.

Weight: 70-100 lbs.
Origin: Germany

2. Rottweilers

Rottweilers are known to be very aggressive dogs because of their keen territorial instincts. That's why they make great guard dogs.

Weight: 100-130 lbs.
Origin: Germany

1. Pit Bulls

A pit bull is a fearless dog that will take on any opponent. They will lock their jaws onto the prey until it's dead. Pit bulls have a reputation of mauling people to death and they are highly sought for dog fighting.

Weight: 55-65 lbs.
Origin: United States

Dogs most often make wonderful pets, however in certain circumstances, any type of dog can be dangerous. Even friendly dogs, can inflict great harm in the wrong circumstance.

Note. I disagree with this article. Because how aggressive the dog is depends on the owners, circumstances, and training.

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Flea and Tick

2008-05-13T08:51:00.001-07:00

Fleas
Flea infestation is one of the most annoying problems faced by you and your pet. It only takes a few fleas to start an infestation. Female fleas lay 40-50 eggs each day which drop off your pet and land around your home, where they can remain dormant for as long as six months. However, with the right temperature and humidity, the lifecycle can be as short as three weeks.

Flea Life Cycle

Ticks

Paralysis Ticks (Ixodes holocyclus)

The paralysis tick (Ixodes holocyclus) is mainly found in the bush and coastal areas of Eastern Australia and can kill dogs and cats. Saliva injected when the tick feeds causes a progressive paralysis, which ultimately leads to respiratory failure and death.

Adult Brown Dog Tick (Rhipicephalus sanguineus)

Tick Life Cycle

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Treating for Fleas

2008-05-12T07:21:00.001-07:00

It is also vital that you treat not only your pet but also his environment as best you can.
Fleas can live anywhere.

They reside quite nicely in your yard, grass, sand, dirt, carpet, bedding and anywhere else you can think of.
They are resilient.

Persistence is a must.
One study showed fleas that were found in Arctic Turns nests which were thawed out and found to be still viable after having been frozen for a long time.
The fleas life cycle must be broken to gain any sort of advantage at depleting their population.

Treat the house, the yard, and your pets.
Make sure you use products that are safe for all your pets.

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FACTS AND FALLACIES ABOUT CANINE IMMUNIZATION

2008-05-11T07:17:00.001-07:00

In young puppies, 95 percent of their immunity is obtained by consuming colostrum, which is the first milk produced by the mother dog shortly after birth.
TRUE. If the dam is immune to the common infectious canine diseases, her puppies will also be protected for six to sixteen weeks after birth, if they consume colostrum.
Female dogs revaccinated prior to breeding pass more antibodies on to their puppies in their colostrum than non-revaccinated dogs.
TRUE. The higher the dam's concentration of antibodies to infectious diseases, the more protection she can pass on to her puppies. Revaccination causes the body to produce a large amount of antibodies.
While they are present, antibodies received from the mother do not interfere with permanent vaccination of her puppies.
FALSE. The antibodies a puppy receives from his mother will tie up the antigens in a vaccine and prevent the puppy from making his own antibodies for weeks after birth.
Whether the vaccine used contains a killed virus or a modified live virus has no effect on the response to vaccination in the older puppy (over three months old) or adult dog.
FALSE. In general, the modified live vaccines are more effective and produce a longer period of immunity. The killed vaccines require repeated doses to produce an adequate immune response, but they are safer for use in sick or pregnant dogs. Your veterinarian can advise you on which vaccines and what immunization schedule is best for your dog.
The route of administration (usually intramuscular or subcutaneous) has no effect on the level of protection produced in dogs old enough to be vaccinated.
FALSE. The effect that the route of administration has on the dog's response to vaccination depends on the vaccine being administered. For example, rabies vaccine is much more effective given by the intramuscular route than by the subcutaneous route. With canine distemper vaccine, both routes appear to be equally effective.
Repeat vaccination of puppies is required because the exact time when the vaccination will be effective can't be determined.
TRUE.The antibodies a puppy receives from his mother gradually wear out and are eliminated by the puppy's disease defense system. The more antibodies the puppy receives in the colostrum, the longer this takes. Vaccination schedules usually provide multiple shots at two to four week intervals, thus ensuring that one or more of the shots are given when the puppy will be receptive to the vaccination.
Orphan puppies that received no colostrum should be vaccinated at four to five weeks of age with killed vaccines.
TRUE.Vaccination before one month of age may be ineffective because the immune system does not start to mature until after normal adult body temperature is achieved. A modified live vaccine can cause disease by infecting the immature puppy; therefore, killed vaccines should be used in very young animals.
Since older dogs (over seven years of age) may have a decreased ability to produce antibodies in response to vaccination, they should be revaccinated yearly.
TRUE . Older dogs do not produce as many antibodies in response to vaccination as younger dogs. The duration of protection from a single vaccination will therefore be shorter for the older animal. Yearly revaccination prevents antibody levels from dropping below levels that are protective.
In a multiple dog household, it is best to synchronize revaccinations so that no dog is omitted.
TRUE. Revaccinate some of your dogs early so that all future vaccinations will be due at the same time. This simplifies record-keeping and ensures that each animal is protected at all times.
Vaccination of a dog that is already ill with the disease will prevent the disease from progressing.
FALSE. Vaccination of a sick dog will not prevent disease because the protective antibody level will not be reached before full development of the illness. Four days to two weeks is required for the body to make enough antibodies to protect itself from disease. The antibodies must be present prior to exposure to the disease-causing organism.
Vaccinated puppies should be protected from chilling, since chilling reduces the amount of antibodies produced after vaccination.
TRUE. Recent research on litters of puppies matched for age, sex, and weight demonstrated significantly higher antibody levels in the puppies not subjected to a cold environment during the time antibodies were forming after vaccination.
Dogs do not need to be vaccinated for canine distemper, canine hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza and parvo virus, since they will acquire natural immunity anyway.
FALSE. All of the named diseases can be fatal. Recovery from any of them usually leaves the dog immune to the same disease, but does not prevent internal organ damage which can predispose the animal to other serious disease states.
If a dog is being treated with anticancer drugs and/or high doses of corticosteroids, that treatment will have no effect on the response to vaccinations.
FALSE. Immunosuppressive drugs such as anticancer drags or high dose corticosteroids can impair the immune response to the point that modified live virus vaccines can infect the dog and cause the disease they are meant to prevent. No disease will develop in response to the use of killed vaccines, but no protective level of antibodies will develop either.
Severely debilitated dogs should be vaccinated to protect them from infectious diseases.
FALSE. Severely debilitated dogs may be susceptible to vaccination-induced disease from modified live virus since they lack enough protein to make antibodies. If they must be vaccinated, killed vaccines should be used and the dogs should be revaccinated when their health improves.
In areas experiencing rabies outbreaks, all puppies over four months of age should be vaccinated.
TRUE. Rabies is a serious viral disease that is fatal in humans and animals and can be transmitted from one to the other. Public health regulations require vaccination of all domestic animals that could transmit rabies to people. The normal rabies vaccination age for dogs is four months, but the vaccine can be used in puppies as young as three months.
Immune serum, which is a source of preformed antibodies, can protect an orphan puppy from infection but will not give him permanent immunity.
TRUE. Immune serum contains preformed antibodies just like colostrum. It provides instant protection, but as the antibodies are used up (within a few days to a few weeks), they are not replaced. Immune serum is used only to protect dogs that may be exposed to disease before permanent vaccinations can be completed.

NOTE: The best way to protect your dog is to have your veterinarian set up a vaccination program. This program will provide your dog with excellent protection against almost all of the important infectious diseases that he could catch. Proper protection means a longer healthier life for your dog.

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More, about Dog Vaccination

2008-05-10T08:10:00.001-07:00

Dog Vaccination Schedule

6-8 WEEKS:

Physical examination
First DHLPPC (Distemper, Leptospirosis, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvo virus, & Corona virus)
Deworming

10-12 WEEKS:

Physical examination
Second DHLPPC
Deworming
Kennel Cough Vaccination

14-16 WEEKS:

Physical examination
Third DHLPPC
Rabies Vaccination*

ANNUALLY:

Physical examination
DHLPPC Booster
Kennel Cough Booster
Rabies Booster*
Deworming

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Dog Vaccination Schedule

2008-05-09T06:41:00.001-07:00

5 weeks
Parvovirus: for puppies at high risk of exposure to parvo, some veterinarians recommend vaccinating at 5 weeks. Check with your veterinarian.

6 & 9 weeks
Combination vaccine* without leptospirosis.
Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern.

12 weeks or older
Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (age at vaccination may vary according to local law).

12 & 15 weeks**
Combination vaccine
Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern.
Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs.

Adult (boosters)§
Combination vaccine
Leptospirosis: include leptospirosis in the combination vaccine where leptospirosis is a concern, or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
Coronavirus: where coronavirus is a concern.
Lyme: where Lyme disease is a concern or if traveling to an area where it occurs.
Rabies: Given by your local veterinarian (time interval between vaccinations may vary according to local law).

*A combination vaccine, often called a 5-way vaccine, usually includes adenovirus cough and hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza, and parvovirus. Some combination vaccines may also include leptospirosis (7-way vaccines) and/or coronavirus. The inclusion of either canine adenovirus-1 or adenovirus-2 in a vaccine will protect against both adenovirus cough and hepatitis; adenovirus-2 is highly preferred.

**Some puppies may need additional vaccinations against parvovirus after 15 weeks of age. Consult with your local veterinarian.

§ According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, dogs at low risk of disease exposure may not need to be boostered yearly for most diseases. Consult with your local veterinarian to determine the appropriate vaccination schedule for your dog. Remember, recommendations vary depending on the age, breed, and health status of the dog, the potential of the dog to be exposed to the disease, the type of vaccine, whether the dog is used for breeding, and the geographical area where the dog lives or may visit.
Bordetella and parainfluenza: For complete canine cough protection, we recommend Intra-Trac II ADT. For dogs that are shown, in field trials, or are boarded, we recommend vaccination every six months with Intra-Trac II ADT.

Technorati Tags: dogs,health,vaccination,schedule,lovers

Marley and Me: Life and Love With the World's Worst Dog

2008-05-08T06:16:00.001-07:00

If you think you are a dogs lover, you have to read this book.

Marley and Me

This book tells a story about how the author, Josh Grogan, decided to adopt a puppy with his wife, Jenny. He adopt a young Yellow Labrador Retriever, who then named Marley. In this book, we can see what should and should not be done by a dog owner. And we can also see that dogs can be loyal, funny, but also annoying in the same time.

We can learn about many things of training our dogs from this book. And guess what, it has started being filmed! Ooohh... Can't wait to watch Marley and Me in the movie!!! ;)

Before you watch the movie, make sure you have read the book, Marley & Me: Life and Love with the World's Worst Dog. It's also available in Audiobook, hardcover, Bad Dog, Marley! (for younger readers), Marley: A Dog Like No Other A special adaptation for young readers.
Bad Dog, Marley is also available in Bad Dog, Marley! Beloved Book and Plush Puppy.

If you love Kindle, you can also read Marley and Me in kindle version. (Don' forget to have the Kindle: The Wireless Reading Device first)

Enjoy your reading... :)

Technorati Tags: dogs,lovers,marley,and,me,book,puppy,retriever

Technorati

2008-05-08T01:27:00.000-07:00

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Source: http://clickertraining.com

Dog vs Chocolate (part 2)

2008-05-08T01:08:00.001-07:00

Dog Care : After Your Dog Eats Chocolate

The ASPCA, Susan Thorpe-Vargas, M.S, Ph.D. in her article "Poisoned," and others strongly encourage pet owners to be prepared for a poisoning. When time can make the difference between life and death, it is important that the owner know steps to take immediately and have the first-aid tools on hand to take those steps.

To prepare, get knowledgeable. You'll avoid panic if you have educated yourself. Videos are great because they're convenient. A video is easy to play, can be viewed by a family together, and is a great way to relax in your easy chair while learning skills that can save the life of your pet.

Check Out This Veterinarian's Helpful Book

The book is entitled Dog Owner's Home Veterinary Handbook

Dr. James Griffin and his associate, Lisa Carlson, DVM, wrote this thorough and picture-heavy book from which you can learn doggie CPR, rescue breathing and the Heimlich maneuver, as well as what to do for a wide range of emergencies: poisoning, drowning, bleeding, electric shock, fractures, cold exposure and heat stroke

Next be prepared by having on hand the tools you might need. The first-aid treatment for chocolate poisoning involves removing it from the body, quickly, before too much time passes and the theobromine has circulated, damaging the gastrointestinal tract in the process. The treatment includes:

inducing vomiting, which removes, and then administering
activated charcoal slurry, which absorbs.

The sooner this is done, the less the effects of the poison. That, in itself, explains the importance of dog owners having an emergency kit in their homes plus the knowledge for quick first-aid treatment.

To induce vomiting, Michelle Bamberger in Help! The Quick Guide to First Aid for Your Dog, Howell Bookhouse, New York 1993, recommends using three percent hydrogen peroxide, one-to-two teaspoons by mouth every 15 minutes until vomiting occurs.

Alternatively, she suggests using Syrup of Ipecac. Use, she says, two to three teaspoons, only once.

You can get Syrup of Ipecac at almost any pharmacy.

You do not need a prescription from your doctor. Syrup of Ipecac is inexpensive and will keep for several years if stored at room temperature.

After vomiting, Bamberger says to give the dog by mouth activated charcoal mixed with water to a slurry consistency. The dosage is 1 teaspoon for dogs who are less than 25 pounds and 2 teaspoons for dogs weighing more than 25 pounds.

Put Activated Charcoal in Your Emergency Kit

Toxiban Activated Charcoal. The substance is a fine powder form of processed charcoal that binds to many types of poisons and can keep them from being absorbed into the bloodstream. This product isn't easy to find online. We did compare prices when we found it and know this is a good deal. Check it out, getting some now, before you forget.

Toxiban might be wise to have in your pet emergency kit because it also is effective in adsorbing other poisonous substances eaten or drunk by dogs or cats.

These toxins include, but are not limited to, strychnine, organophosphate and carbamate insecticides, herbicides, rodenticides, depressants and analgesics.

Some people have recommended burnt toast if you do not have activated charcoal on hand. However, at Tueskegee University veterinarians teach their toxicology students that "burned or charred toast is ineffective." (See: Tuskegee University Vet Med Toxicology Class )

In the event your dog has eaten chocolate, always gather as much information as possible. Note the type of chocolate the dog ate, how much chocolate was eaten and approximately when your dog ate it. Write this information down. Should you need medical help, your veterinarian will appreciate any facts you can provide. If you can't get this information quickly, don't belabor it. Write down what you can.

If several hours have passed between the time your dog ate a toxic does of chocolate and your finding of him or her, its possible that your dog is displaying severe symptoms. If your dog is having seizures or is comatose, don't delay, immediately take your dog to your veterinarian.

If your dog doesn't eat enough chocolate to induce toxicity, but is vomiting (without your prodding) or has diarrhea, it's likely that it's the chocolate's high fat content that is the culprit. Watch your dog carefully. You don't want him or her to dehydrate. Provide plenty of fluids.

If your dog's symptoms don't clear up within eight hours, call your veterinarian. If your dog is very small or young, call your veterinarian within four hours.
A good outcome is likely if treatment is provided within 4 to 6 hours of ingestion. The effects of chocolate can linger for 12-36 hours, though, so your dog may require hospitalization

Technorati Tags: dogs,lovers,health,chocolate

Dog vs Chocolate (part 1)

2008-05-07T05:30:00.001-07:00

Why Chocolate Poisons Dogs and How to Treat Chocolate Dog Poisoning

While the pathetic begging look that goes across the face of a dog wanting chocolate can weaken the most stoic dog owner, stay firm. Do not give in. Ever.
Once dogs have tasted chocolate, they want more.
And for dogs, that's a bad thing.
You might disagree, thinking back to a time when you noticed a dog enjoying a tidbit of chocolate with no deleterious effect.

Don't be fooled.

The problem, according to veterinary experts, is that eating a speck of chocolate leads a dog to crave more. It can mean that your dog will jump at a opportunity to get any type of chocolate, not knowing that certain chocolates are more lethal than other types. Larger amounts of chocolate, particularly of the most toxic type, can bring about epileptic seizures in some dogs, and in all dogs, can kill.

Poisoning of dogs by chocolate is not as uncommon as you might think.

"Chocolate ingestions are one common reason why pet owners and veterinarians call us," said Dana Farbman, Certified Veterinary Technician and Manager, Client and Professional Relations, ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center. "However, it would be difficult to verify an exact ranking in frequency of calls, as the types of substances we receive calls on can vary greatly depending on many factors, including the time of year. We generally do experience somewhat of a rise in chocolate calls around holidays, such as Halloween, Easter, Christmas, Valentine's Day and Mother's Day.

Why is Chocolate Lethal?
Chocolate contains theobromine. A naturally occurring stimulant found in the cocoa bean, theobromine increases urination and affects the central nervous system as well as heart muscle. While amounts vary by type of chocolate, it's the theobromine that is poisonous to dogs.

Symptoms of Chocolate Dog Ingestion and Poisoning
You can recognize that your dog has eaten a toxic dose of chocolate from the symptoms. Within the first few hours, the evidence includes vomiting, diarrhea or hyperactivity. As time passes and there's increased absorption of the toxic substance, you'll see an increase in the dog's heart rate, which can cause arrhythmia, restlessness, hyperactivity, muscle twitching, increased urination or excessive panting.

This can lead to hyperthermia, muscle tremors, seizures, coma and even death.

How Much Chocolate Is Deadly?
If a 50-pound dog eats a teaspoonful of milk chocolate, it's not going to cause serious problems. However, if that same dog gorges himself on a two-layer chocolate cake, his stomach will feel more than upset and soon it's likely he'll be vomiting or experiencing diarrhea.
To answer the question "How much is too much" is not simple. The health and age of your dog must be considered. Obviously if your dog is aged and not in top shape, his reaction to a plate of chocolate is going to be different from a young healthy dog of the same weight.

Another fact that must be considered is this: Not all chocolate is the same. Some has a small amount of theobromine; another type has a large amount and still another contains an amount that is somewhere in between. The quantity has a relationship with the weight of your dog. Small dogs can be poisoned, it is easy to understand, from smaller amounts of theobromine than large dogs.

Which chocolate is the safest, relatively speaking? White chocolate. It has the least amount of theobromine: 1 mg per ounce. Far on the other side of the spectrum is baking chocolate, which has a huge 450 mg of theobromine per ounce!

Here are a few other chocolates for you to ponder: hot chocolate, 12 mg of theobromine per ounce; milk chocolate, 60 mg/oz; and up there near baking chocolate: semi-sweet chocolate with 260 mg/oz.

You might try using this to remember these chocolates from least to most toxic: What Happy Moose Says BAA? Or: White-Hot-Milk-Semi-Baked. If you have a better way to remember, contact us!

Knowing which chocolate is the most toxic is important, but leaves one wondering how much must be eaten to poison a dog. The list in this box should be helpful. Maybe you can clip it and post it on your refrigerator?

White chocolate: 200 ounces per pound of body weight. It takes 250 pounds of white chocolate to cause signs of poisoning in a 20-pound dog, 125 pounds for a 10-pound dog.
Milk chocolate: 1 ounce per pound of body weight. Approximately one pound of milk chocolate is poisonous to a 20-pound dog; one-half pound for a 10-pound dog. The average chocolate bar contains 2 to 3 ounces of milk chocolate. It would take 2-3 candy bars to poison a 10 pound dog. Semi-sweet chocolate has a similar toxic level.
Sweet cocoa: 0.3 ounces per pound of body weight. One-third of a pound of sweet cocoa is toxic to a 20-pound dog; 1/6 pound for a 10-pound dog.
Baking chocolate: 0.1 ounce per pound body weight. Two one-ounce squares of bakers' chocolate is toxic to a 20-pound dog; one ounce for a 10-pound dog.

Technorati Tags: dogs,lover,chocolate,health,sick,puppy

Complain about Your Dogs?

2008-05-03T11:02:00.001-07:00

To Non-Pet Owners Who Visit and Complain About Our

Technorati Tags: dogs,lover,cute,fur,owner,puppy,children

Pets:

They live here. You don't.
If you don't want their hair on your clothes, stay off the furniture. (That's why they call it "fur"niture)
To you,it's an animal. To me, he/she is an adopted son/daughter who is short, hairy, walks on all fours and doesn't speak clearly.

Remember:
Dogs and cats are better than kids because they...

Eat less
Don't ask for money all the time
Are easier to train
Normally come when called
Never ask to drive the car
Don't hang out with drug-using friends
Don't smoke or drink
Don't have to buy the latest fashions
Don't want to wear your clothes
Don't need a gazillion dollars for college, and...
If they get pregnant, you can sell their children

Introducing Dogs to a New Baby

2008-04-17T07:37:00.000-07:00

There is a lot written about introducing dogs to a new baby—most of it is fanciful, superfluous, and a waste of time. Dogs don't struggle with new smells, they don't need to go through complicated rituals to accept a new member into the family, and the worry people have about the transition can create anxiety for the dog!

So the first thing to do is relax.

The next thing to do is look at actual behaviors (what a dog does, not what we like to think dogs do "in the wild" that might suddenly appear out of nowhere).

Which behaviors are going to be a pain in the bum when you've got a baby to care for and you're running on empty? Which behaviors would you like to see instead of those unwanted behaviors? Are there any management strategies you can use to make your life easier, without sacrificing too much of your dog's lifestyle? (There will always be some compromises.)
The worry people have about the transition can create anxiety for the dog!

We taught our dogs not to jump a baby gate into the main living area. And that was about all we needed to train. They already knew how to drop things, to "leave it," and to wait quietly on mats or in crates.

When baby comes home, the boredom should begin. What I mean is that, to your dogs, the baby should be absolutely the most boring thing on the planet. But most people introduce the baby to the dog and expect some sort of...

1. trouble
2. excitement
3. magical wolf-child bond to form, possibly aided by spirit guides
4. jealousy
5. over-protectiveness, due to the magical wolf-child bond

... all of which will happen, if that's what you are looking for, but that's probably not what you really want.

You really just want your dog to chill out if your baby cries, tro leave your baby and baby's toys alone, and to stay out from under your feet when you're carrying baby. Apart from that, it's life as normal as far as your dog is concerned.

If you know for a fact that your dog gets horribly agitated when he hears a baby cry, then consider using a recording of a baby crying to teach an alternative behavior ahead of time.

Reinforce the behavior you want, ignore or prevent behavior you don't want.
Source: http://clickertraining.com

Can Cats and Dogs be Friends?

2008-04-17T07:36:00.000-07:00

This saying reflects the commonly-held belief that dogs and cats just can't get along because they are natural enemies. People who share their homes with both species, or who have read The Incredible Journey, know that this is not true. Dogs and cats can form fast friendships. It is life experiences with members of the other species, and not an inborn animosity, that determines how cats and dogs feel about each other.

The initial meeting sets the stage for future considerations in the dog/cat relationship. Both species communicate with body language and, because they "speak" differently, misinterpretations may start the relationship on the right or wrong paw, depending on who says what to whom!
Personality types—and their tails
It is life experiences with members of the other species, and not an inborn animosity, that determines how cats and dogs feel about each other.

A confident, pushy dog will approach another with tail held high. This "go ahead, make my day" type of challenge is most often met with submission and/or appeasement from the other dog, unless the other dog rises to the challenge and presents a confrontational stance himself. A friendly, confident cat will approach with tail held high, also. This cat is saying "Hey, let's be friends."

Consider the situation when the confident, friendly cat marches up to the easygoing or submissive dog, tail flying high, head in the air, and with a confident step. The dog, not wanting any trouble, offers a polite greeting or backs off to see what the cat wants to do next. Either response is reinforcing for the cat; he learns that this approach to a dog works well. This type of cat will make friends easily with most dogs, because dogs misinterpret the friendly tail flag and are careful not to cause offense on the first meeting.
dog and cat playing

We have a dog-loving cat that uses this technique with any and all dogs. He even goes out onto the road to accost strange dogs walking by. The dogs are so taken aback that never once has our cat been chased. A visit from our neighbor's Great Dane was cut short when the cat marched up to say hello and the very timid neighbor-dog ran home at top speed with her tail between her legs. It is not so much a matter of size, but more a matter of how you walk the walk and talk the talk in the animal world.

On the other hand, the rare dog that does seek confrontation may react to the friendly cat by escalating the challenge. He may put his paw or chin on the cat's back or stand very tall and growl at the cat. This will frighten the cat, and the cat will run away—or stand and fight. Either way, this dog will have an entirely different impression of cats than the dog who just wants to get along.
Source: http://clickertraining.com

Dog trains Dog

2008-04-17T07:34:00.000-07:00

Living on the streets of Puerto Rico, Charlie apparently learned a thing or two about dog training. Here's a little video of Charlie applying the principles of operant conditioning to teaching Tigerlily. Tigerlily has a toy, and Charlie wanted it. Street life (and genetic survival of the socially fittest) in Puerto Rico apparently led Charlie to understand that it was in his best interests not to challenge other dogs for their interesting stuff, but instead , to practice the fine art of cajoling. Look how well Charlie is able to cajole Tigerlily, and this is just hours after their first meeting!
Source: http://clickertraining.com

Training my Puppy

2008-04-17T07:29:00.000-07:00

So, we went to the local pet store about three weeks ago looking for a dog. We knew we wanted a larger dog like a lab, German Shepard, Huskie etc. Well, this little white, black and brown fluff ball caught our eye. It was a non registered Border Collie female about 10 weeks old. I read a-lot about Border collies in the past, and really appreciated their intelligence and constant energy. I have two young boys who are full of energy, so I figured after we all fell in love with her in the little meet and greet area, we'd buy her. It took our new dog, which my son named Riley only three days, and she was sitting on command. Well, that's where the obedience stopped. She now pulls on the leash almost to the choking point. She bites my kids ankles, eats the cats poop, attacks the cat playfully, and displays agression when we come near her food. I read Cesar Milan's book and decided I wanted to be the "pack leader" and make the dog realize that Humans are dominant and Riley is submissive. Then I entered one of hundreds of Border Collie websites, and realized that most dogs, except for the occasional wolf are not pack animals, and Cesars approach, while effective in most cases isn't the right way to go about it. Clicker training was listed as the most sucessful method of positive reinforcement for all the dog species I read about. Unfortunately, I didn't see any results of clicker training Border Collies. I contacted a karen Pryor certified Training facility www.clickingwithcanines.com and spoke to Steve the owner of the facility. He feels confident he can train my dog well. I spoke to him on the phone for 35 minutes, and he is loaded with knowledge. So, if anyone at all is interested I'll update this blog with the results of training. My orientation is tomorrow night, march 26. I'll update in a weeks or so.

In the mean time has anyone else had experience with a Border Collie as a family dog?

Source: http://clickertraining.com

Training at a dog show

2008-04-17T07:22:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I showed Peach in breed at my regional Scottie specialty, and I took Basil along so I could work with him on Utility. I knew that I could have him off-leash in the building because it was only Scottie people, we were among friends, and no AKC reps would be there.

We worked on go-outs, signals, articles, and gloves. Go-outs went VERY well. I sent him to the outside of the ring after setting up the broad jump chute with a stanchion in the middle. The very first time I sent him, I was probably only ten feet from the edge of the chute, but he still ran out and did his dilly-dally thing at the broad jump board. I went out, took him by the collar, led him to the middle and had him bop the stanchion. After that, no problems at all! We quickly progressed to 20-25 foot go outs, with lots of people milling around and some lining up alongside to watch. They were all good distractions for him. I think after the initial miss, he only missed one more go out (of maybe 20) when he just didn't hear my cue because he was distracted (this theme seemed to repeat itself...).

After go outs, we worked on signals in the same area, outside the ring but right next to the boutique table. At first, he was extremely distracted and missed several signals. I found myself having to give a few verbals, which was very disappointing. But once he got working, I was able to do signals at a very nice distance of 15 to 18 feet! I was super proud of him for this. He missed the sit signal most often, because he knows that the down is the first signal, so he tends to do it as a default if he hasn't been paying attention (although he missed a down or two as well).

We took a break for a while, then did articles. I put out six articles at a distance of 8 feet or so, and he did the first several articles without any problem. Once I switched to leather, though, he got VERY weirded out by the presence of the photographer, whose table was set up near the area we were training in. Suddenly, he couldn't even do scent discrimination with me standing right next to the pile. We scrapped it, and I've made a mental note to start working scent discrimination in as many places as possible so he can start pushing it a bit.

We did do some work with the glove after the snafu with the articles, and Basil did very well; we did a few holds in front, and also a handful of very short retrieves, and no problems there. After that I finished with him for the day...he was still acting a little weird, and even when we went to sit down, Basil didn't want to sit with me. He ran into his crate (he was off-leash) and curled up into a ball and wouldn't come out. I think it may have been the acoustics (old airport-hangar type place), which Peach also didn't like.

Overall I think it was a pretty successful training session; any opportunity to work in a new place is excellent both for Basil and for me, so I can see what's working and what's not. I now know that I need to work on the following:

* signals with distractions going on around us. Need to reinforce lots of eye contact while activity occurs around us. Once it warms up outside, we'll start working out there more, and I can even take him down to the school.

* go outs to new/novel locations. I need to get him over this hump of running out and flitting about at the broad jump chute. I'm confident he can overcome it, but I need to be more dedicated about generalizing him.

* articles in new locations with other stuff going on around us (again, see the theme here?)

* keep at it with gloves.

* need to vary my reinforcement more. I've gotten lazy lately. I used good stuff yesterday (liver and tuna brownies), but at home I've been doing the same old turkey hot dog/cheese/Natural Balance mix for months.

The big downside to training alone is that it's almost always very quiet. I need to get down to the club every week this spring, now that my school schedule has lightened up.

Source: http://clickertraining.com

How to Stop Unwanted Barking

2008-04-17T07:05:00.000-07:00

Your barking dog

Dogs bark for a number of reasons, some acceptable, some not. Common types of barking include the following:

Alert barking. Dog barks to let you know he has seen or heard something out of the ordinary.
Defensive barking. Dog barks to make something he is afraid of or doesn't like go away.
Attention barking. Dog wants attention.
Frustration barking. Dog is confused, frustrated, or stressed.
Boredom barking. Dog barks to amuse himself.

Evaluate the situation

When you deal with barking, it's important to look at the whole situation. Barking is sometimes a symptom of another problem—for example, fear, boredom, or stress. If you fix the problem, the symptom will likely go away. However, if you simply treat the symptom, the problem will just manifest itself in a different way-one which may be worse! Treat the problem not the symptom.

Define and train an alternative behavior

Not all barking is symptomatic of an underlying problem. Often it's simple communication: "There's someone outside!" "I want to come in!" "I'm hungry!"

First, listen to your dog. Address the issue. Then determine whether barking was an appropriate response. Perhaps limited barking is all right under certain circumstances. Or perhaps you'd prefer to teach your dog an alternative way to communicate his needs. It's your responsibility to define an appropriate response in each situation.

If the dog continues to bark after being cued to do something else, or if the dog is barking for attention, one of the most effective responses is to remove what he wants.

For example, your dog alert barks when a car pulls into the driveway. First, listen to the dog and address the issue. Check to see what he's barking at, thank him for bringing the situation to your attention, and reassure him you've got it under control. Then decide how you want him to react in the future when strangers drive in. Perhaps he may bark to alert you, but once he's done that you want him to be quiet. If that's the case, interrupt any further barking and cue another, reinforceable behavior.

Train your dog to be silent

By teaching your dog to bark on cue, you can also teach him to be silent on cue. Read Karen's method for teaching bark/be quiet.

Remove the reinforcement for unwanted barking

Barking is, unfortunately, a self-reinforcing behavior, so waiting for the behavior to extinguish—even when another behavior is reinforced—is often futile. Therefore I recommend a combination of positive reinforcement and negative punishment.

If the dog continues to bark after being cued to do something else, or if the dog is barking for attention, one of the most effective responses is to remove what he wants. For example, if he wants to get out of the crate, stop moving or back away when he barks, then walk forward when he quiets down.

Manage the environment

When you're not training, manage the environment so that barking isn't triggered and inadvertently reinforced. For example, if your dog barks when he's alone in the back yard, keep him inside except when you're able to go out with him. If your dog barks at passersby through the front window, either draw the blinds or keep the dog out of the front room except when you're there to address the problem.

When you're training, make sure inappropriate barking isn't rewarded—and that the preferred response is. Be proactive. Cue your preferred response before the barking is triggered.

Source: http://clickertraining.com

Teaching bite inhibition

2008-04-17T06:18:00.000-07:00

Puppy biting is almost always just a play behavior. It’s a lot like kids: puppies make mistakes and cause boo-boos when they start playing excitedly. Accidents happen more often when they’re tired.

Another instructor was saying she was thinking of puppy biting as a “defense” behavior. That would be true of feral (wild) puppies. Much more often, puppy biting is a natural part of sociable puppy playing.

The puppy without an inhibited bite needs to learn that biting human flesh, even in play, is NOT going to be reinforced!

I don’t intentionally yelp or yell at pups who bite, but I do want to deliver an immediate consequence – even with soft bites -- so that pups get a clear and consistent message about where teeth do and don’t belong. Keeping a puppy playpen (a gated area, or a crate with an open top) in your puppy play area makes it easy. Keep it black and white at first, and if the puppy bites a person at all, stop playing with him. Cheerfully put him in the crate with his chew bones for a minute or two (or more if the puppy then shows me that he was ready for a chew and rest anyway).

If everyone follows this rule consistently, puppies quickly learn that biting people ends their fun.

Then, you can begin to add more complicated concepts such as, don’t bite me even when I’m playing with your teeth or even when I’m feeding you treats, or even when we’re playing tug. After the dog has learned to stop biting, we naturally start to slack off in our delivery of "consequences," and so the pup learns that some "gentle mouthing" in some situations is tolerated.

I teach pups to lick treats – food reinforce to the tongue, not to the tooth nibble – from my hands. If your click timing isn't great, that's okay, just make sure you don't release the treat to a tooth grab, but only hand it over when the dog is using lips and tongue to get it. I'll post a video here showing you how to do that.
Source: http://clickertraining.com

How to Say Hello: Teaching Manners to Aggressive Dogs

2008-04-17T06:07:00.000-07:00

Change the Behavior, the Emotions Will Follow

While emotions drive behavior, the reverse is also true: emotions follow physical expression, or behavior. In psychology, the practice of "smile therapy" advises clients to hold a smile on their faces, whether they feel like it or not. The theory is that even a forced smile washes away the emotions that prevent you from smiling, increasing your motivation and confidence. In other words, if you want to be happy, act happy. In addition, changing the consequences of a behavior can alter an emotional state. While the psychologists are concerned with human behavior, clicker training accomplishes both objectives for our dogs. We can teach our dogs to perform separate social behaviors on cue while interacting with other dogs. If these behaviors are solidly on cue, they can help them relax, and spark spontaneous appropriate interactions.
"As your dog grows accustomed to touching other dogs, the encounters become self-reinforcing and evolve into genuine social interaction."

When I wanted Ben to meet other dogs, I knew I needed to teach him a behavior that would requires moving toward other dogs. Another dog would become, for our purposes, a prop: an object that would provide a clickable opportunity. Targeting, or touching his nose to an object on cue, was a behavior that Ben already knew well. So I decided to teach Ben to target, or touch, another dog's nose or hindquarters on cue.

At first, Ben would touch the other dog, and immediately look to me for a click and treat. As we worked on the behavior, something exciting began to happen. Ben would touch the other dog, turn to me for a click and treat, and then turn back to the other dog, gently wagging his tail. Trying to contain my glee, I would calmly let the two dogs meet, clicking and praising Ben for each second that he exhibited acceptable behavior.

Originally the target-the-dog behavior was simply a cued behavior that Ben would perform in conjunction with the other dog. But as Ben discovered that being close to another dog had its benefits, his attitude toward the other dog changed. The door opened to the possibility that Ben could meet other dogs happily.

When you teach your dog to touch another dog's nose or hindquarters on cue, you ask him to focus on a task rather than on the other dog. He will first see the other dog as an opportunity to earn a click and a reward. He learns, "Interaction with the other dog is the means through which I get clicked." As your dog grows accustomed to touching other dogs, the encounters become self-reinforcing and evolve into genuine social interaction.

Don't rush into these training sessions. If your dog is a danger to other dogs and truly attacks them, these sessions may never be appropriate for him. With the violently aggressive dog, work on desensitizing him to the environment that he considers aversive and teach him a behavior incompatible with aggression, rather than focusing on his canine body language. Other less-aggressive dogs, however, may regain the ability to play with friends, to run off-leash, and to take part in the other joys of dog life, just by learning to speak "Dog." (pages 98-99, Click to Calm: Healing the Aggressive Dog, by Emma Parsons ).

Here is Emma Parsons's step-by-step recipe for teaching a dog to greet another dog politely, as excerpted from pages of Click to Calm.

Touch Another Dog's Nose or Hindquarters on Cue

You can teach your dog to introduce himself appropriately to another dog on cue; he does this by softly touching the other dog's nose or hindquarters. As he performs a canine greeting as a trained behavior, he will focus on the task rather than the stressful fact that another dog is in close proximity. The other dog becomes vital to the learning equation: "Interaction with another dog earns me a click."

Especially helpful whenâ€¦

* You want your dog to become comfortable in close proximity to other dogs.
* You want to get your dog used to having other dogs sticking their nose in his face.

How to make it happen:

1. Work with another dog and handler. Pick a dog that your dog likes. If your dog is not comfortable with any dogs, see if you can find a handler with a nonreactive dog who would be willing to help.
2. Work in a secure area where no other unleashed dogs will interrupt the training session.
3. Leash both dogs.
4. Ask the other handler to stand in the center of the space with her dog at her side.
5. Start walking with your dog toward the other dog. Instead of walking straight up, curve in an arc around the other dog.
6. Click and feed after each step that takes you closer to the other dog.
7. Stop a couple of feet from the other dog.
8. Click and feed your dog for looking at the other dog.
9. Take another step closer.
10. Click and feed your dog as he sniffs the other dog. Note that each time you click, your dog will automatically look up at you again for his treat. Then say "okay" and begin again. If successful, repeat three to four times per session.
11. When your dog begins to start sniffing the other dog's nose or hindquarters on his own, you can now add the verbal cue "Touch." Reinforce your dog for sniffing the other dog's face (nose) only.
12. Practice this behavior with as many friendly, nonreactive dogs as you can. The more exercises you can do in and around other dogs, the more your dog will feel comfortable with dogs around him, especially if you have specific exercises where the other dog is part of the learning environment.

Secrets of success:

* If your dog has a hard time understanding that touching the other dog means a click and a treat, teach your dog how to target on everyday objects first. A canine stuffed animal is a great object to start with.
* It might be easier to start teaching your dog to touch another dog's hindquarters on cue first before advancing to touching the other dog's face. Sniffing the hindquarters of another dog is one of the first things dogs do when they meet each other.
* Follow the steps of this recipe a lot more slowly if your dog is interacting with a strange dog.
* Maintain a high rate of reinforcement.
* Make sure your dog has worked the "Meeting Other Dogs on Cue" exercises in the previous training recipe before progressing to this section.
* Safety first, always. Feel free to muzzle your dog when practicing this exercise.
* This skill comes in handy if another dog rudely introduces himself to your dog. Your dog will automatically think that this is part of an exercise. Your dog will remain calm, therefore you will remain calm.

Source: http://clickertraining.com

Dog Reactive Dog Has a Breakthrough!

2008-04-17T06:03:00.000-07:00

Well, I never thought I'd write this, but Maggie, my "recovering reactive" dog went to a park today and she *played* with 5 dogs! I want to cry I am so happy for her.

A friend of mine, Iris, is a vet I work with and she has a fabulous (and Lazy!) Yellow Lab named Jack. We have used Jack once in a Click To Calm practice session from Emma Parsons book and Maggie had absolutely no reaction to him. I asked my friend if we could meet up a park that we both like and the dogs have been to before, although not recently. She was happy to let Jack play with Maggie and my other dog Etta.

We got to the park and Jack was so excited to see us that he was yelping! Not
like him at all! Etta and he are "boyfriend/girlfriend" so she started yelping
back and Maggie was just like "What the heck is going on here?". Iris told
me that there were two Weimeraners jogging with their owner in the park and they
looked pretty intent on doing that. We let the dogs all meet briefly and then
went into the park. Jack is very appropriate and curved, sniffed, etc, but was
mostly busy already greeting Etta. This took the pressure off Maggie and she just went with it.

We went into the park and began playing ball (Maggie and Jack's favorite
activity). Etta ran around doing her own thing. The Weims came bounding over
and I held my breath, but they circled and went back to their owner. I let out
my breath and Maggie continued playing!

A little Black Lab came bounding up to us and ran straight at Maggie. I held my
breath again. She stuck her nose right in Maggie's face and Maggie lip curled. When the other dog did not notice Maggie then snarked at her (no contact, very little noise). The Lab yelped and ran. Maggie looked at me like "I didn't know what to do", meanwhile Etta decided that the dog must have done something wrong and ran after her. Sigh. Luckily the other dog was quite submissive and went belly up right away. Etta decided that was really boring and went back to sniffing the park (hound noses!).

The little Black Lab came right back to join us and now greeted curved, no more
problems! The Weims would pop in and out of the group from time to time and
then return to their owner.

Another little dog came over, looked like a little Golden Doodle maybe 30
pounds, but looked like an adult. Maggie greeted her, it got a little head on
and I saw Maggie go rigid. I called to her in a happy voice and told her that
she was fine and what a nice doggie. She curved herself (!!!) and then after a
great deal of physical effort she pulled herself away!!! Jackpot to Maggie!

The dogs played for about a half hour and then we decided that they looked like
they were about to pass out so we went to the car for water and head out. I
leashed Maggie because she is not used to walking to that parking lot. They all
ambled along nicely. All of a sudden the Weims were back and we were still
walking along nicely and Maggie was on leash! Who is this dog?! MY dog has never been able to walk calmly on leash with other dogs around, especially when they are loose! I'm on cloud nine! Smile

So a few aha moments for me, even though I already knew some of it, it
reaffirmed it;

~ Maggie can not handle head on approaches or greetings in any way (yet?). It will lead to a snark. I am thinking now that she will even lip lift at Etta if she sticks her face straight in hers. I have no concern about her aggressing at Etta (I think I'd have seen it by now after five years of them being together!), but it is something she just doesn't like.

~ A curved greeting going straight to sniffing does not bring Maggie to any form
of reaction. This was a huge aha for me seeing her be appropriate when the other dog was appropriate.

~ Maggie does not initiate greetings. If the dog comes to her she will try to find a way to "deal" with it, and not always appropriately, but it seems like I can trust her not to "start something". I like this, it helps me feel like she has come farther than I thought.

~ Maggie can be on leash around other dogs while parallel walking!

It was so amazing to see my dog act like a "normal" dog. This was so good for
her! Jack wants to meet up to play again next Monday morning and I can't
wait!!!

If you made it this far, thanks for celebrating with us! :) There is always
hope! And Emma Parsons, if you are reading this, thank you again for all fo your work and all fo the help you have offered to me and to Maggie! Your beloved Ben lives on in every success!!!
--
Jessica Janowski
www.puppyplease.com

Source: http://clickertraining.com

How to Train a "Crazy" Dog!

2008-04-17T05:56:00.000-07:00

I like over-the-top dogs, dogs that come bounding in biting at their leashes (or anything else they can cram into their mouths). I like rambunctious, nutty, go-getters that exhaust their owners. Those are my favorite dogs to train. Why do I enjoy these dogs so much? I find them to be surprisingly easy and rewarding. All of that dog energy can be channeled to our own purposes!
crazy dogs

Most pet owners want to reduce the arousal their dogs show (and most dogs will calm progressively with age and training); some competition or working handlers want to keep the hair-trigger reaction, but with reliable, trained behaviors. Both ends are possible with clicker training.

A friend, a crossover trainer like myself, was bemoaning the superb enthusiasm of her young, unneutered, standard poodle. His habit of pogo-jumping was wearing her out. "I can't train him to heel until I can stop his bouncing," she complained.

"Not true at all," I protested. "Don't you dare try to stop that bouncing. You want that energy for happy, enthusiastic heeling. Use it!"
Channel the energy

How do you channel and use that energy? There are several principles I follow in channeling the energy of eager achievers.

* Ignore the crazy stuff. Owners of "crazy dogs" tend to see and focus on the obnoxious jumping, the leash biting, the lunging for enthusiastic greetings, and the persistent harassment to play tug or fetch. I see a dog asking in every possible way to engage with his human, a dog begging for the interaction of operant conditioning. These dogs just adore inducive training and respond to it quickly.

Many compulsive methods require considerable time and effort to suppress unwanted behavior, all before starting to teach desirable behavior. With clicker training, you can jump straight into teaching a new behavior and disregard what you don't want, trusting that it will disappear shortly. If you are like me, the surplus excitement won't bother you. With clicker training, you'll get what you want soon enough!
Why do I enjoy these dogs so much? I find them to be surprisingly easy and rewarding.
* Love that energy. Enthusiasm carries into training, making training that much easier. All the effort the dog is putting into bucking like a bronco on the leash will soon be thrown into eager downs and fast targeting! This makes the trainer's work simpler. You don't have to create new behavior, you just have to shape what's already occurring. And that's perfect for a lazy trainer like me!

* Use the dog's own motivation. With an average dog, you have to take time to find what motivates that dog—a special toy, a preferred treat? Crazy dogs are motivated by everything! That means you won't be stumped when the dog gets distracted or when you're caught without treats on hand. Simply use whatever is stimulating the dog in the current environment. More benefits for a lazy trainer! "You want to see that friendly new person? Fine, let's work for it! And you can keep eye contact to earn this stick I picked up."

Crazy dogs tend to tell you exactly what they want to work for at the moment. If you believe them—he wants to play tug, or meet a person, or chase a ball—they're eager to work for their reward.
* Reinforcement is control. Too often, owners have been told they have to "get control of" their dog by suppressing his natural energy. But energy has a critical mass; if suppressed and contained too long, it cannot help but explode into activity. This is why a dog that does not know how to earn a toy, for example, will grab at hands or clothing.

The forcible condensing of fusion results in a supernova, and the same is true for crazy dogs! Suppression creates time bombs, and the mere illusion of command.
With clicker training, you'll get what you want soon enough!

Channeling creates true control. A dog that knows it's possible to earn what he wants can control himself to get it instead of fighting with his owner or trainer. (Careful management of criteria is critical here!) If you try to fight the dog's natural exuberance, you will never really manage his energy. But once the dog believes he can earn his energy release, you have him forever.

The dog wins—and chooses control

That's all very well in theory, but how does this work in practice?

The dog can always win. I start teaching a very basic concept—what the dog wants is available to him, but by my rules. You don't want frustration, you want analytical thinking. It's very easy for this type of dog to get locked into frustration and hectic behavior. You can establish right from the start that there's a way to win if he thinks about it.
A dog that knows it's possible to earn what he wants can control himself to get it instead of fighting with his owner or trainer.

Inherently, this concept includes impulse control. Rather than plunging about in a desperate scramble for what he wants, the dog can hold himself still and try to earn it. (If the dog and owner team need impulse control instruction right away, for safety reasons, it is possible to start there. Personally I prefer to jump right in to teaching a new behavior, but I don't mind being jumped on or scratched before the dog acquires the new behavior. Some handlers can't tolerate such risks, though.)

Here's how I teach very basic impulse control.

I show the crazy dog a treat, briefly, and then enclose it in my fist. The dog will probably attempt to poke it free, nudging my hand, pawing at me, nipping, and barking. (I usually start this exercise myself, as most clients don't have the experience to trust where this is going!) The average crazy dog is active and will not pause in his quest, but will actually pull back as if to pounce again. Right then, I click that quick movement and open my hand, delivering the treat or letting it drop to the floor. Then I repeat the process. Most dogs are backing up within a half dozen repetitions, though some take longer if they've been reinforced for obnoxious or pushy behavior. It's also possible to do this with a tug toy, but, in any case, practice your technique in advance—accidental nips and grabs are no fun!
Helpful hints

* Split criteria. Then, split it finer. And even finer! Criteria-splitting is the single biggest error made with crazy dogs. Trainers and handlers tend to "lump," failing to break behavior into achievable pieces. What would seem like an ideal increment for a more typical dog is really a tremendous leap for "crazy" dogs. When success isn't achieved quickly, these dogs load energy and release it in hectic and undesirable behavior. (It's at that point that some owners or trainers decide to use compulsion or coercion to control the dog.)
Right then, I click that quick movement and open my hand, delivering the treat or letting it drop to the floor.

The thing to remember is that the dog can always win. If the dog knows there's a right answer and that he can achieve his click, he will not stop trying to get it. There will be problems only if the criteria is not appropriate or if all the pent-up energy is not relieved appropriately.

When I worked with my young dog, Laev, I taught stationary duration behaviors in quarters or eighths of seconds initially. I've worked with other dogs and taught them to tolerate a handler's departure with the slight movement of one shoe. Once the dog has the idea and develops the necessary self-control, increments can be increased substantially, and the larger behaviors can be achieved (a three minute stay, for example). Always start small.
* Provide an energy release. Most people don't realize how stressful learning can be. Stress isn't necessarily bad. In fact, sometimes it's not distress, but eustress (a pleasant or curative stress). Stress does still take a toll on the dog, though. Many dogs indicate that they need a break by losing attention, wandering away, or sniffing. My favorite crazy dogs indicate fatigue by launching themselves at you or another attractive outlet, or by jumping, nipping and barking.

There has to be a way for the dog to dump energy, and it should almost always be through movement. Play tug, prompt a favorite active trick, or simply move about. Place this release behavior on cue early in training and use it to release energy when the dog has been demonstrating a good deal of self-control or otherwise working hard.

If the dog explodes energetically outside of the cue, that means the training has continued too long or an unrealistic jump in criteria was attempted. Adjust the training and try again.
* Use active behaviors. Passive behaviors are much more difficult for crazy dogs than active behaviors—the dogs have to contain themselves! Behaviors which involve movement allow a constant release of that mental energy and are less likely to lead to explosive outbursts. This is why a crazy dog can retrieve or search for much longer than he can practice his down stay, which seems to be a much less complicated behavior.
The movement helps dispel stress much more efficiently and still provides the benefits of a focused behavior.

This is useful information for managing dogs in daily life. Is the dog stressed by an outside influence, perhaps a stranger or a rude dog? Instead of "sit and watch," as many teach, ask the dog for a heel, a spin, or a leaping target. The movement helps dispel stress much more efficiently and still provides the benefits of a focused behavior.

Is your crazy dog too enthusiastic at the door? Instead of teaching "sit" to greet, which is very tough for these dogs, teach the dog to fetch a toy and bring it to the new arrival, holding it in his mouth as he is petted. This gives the dog a place to channel his energy (his jaws) while also preventing mouthing or licking.
* Be proactive. The problem with crazy dogs is that they are faster than humans, mentally as well as physically. By the time you realize you've encountered a challenge, your dog might have evaluated several behavioral options and settled on what makes the most sense to her—something you probably do not want!

At the educated end of the leash, your job is to instruct the dog about what will pay off best—well before that scenario arises. Dogs load energy too quickly to interrupt them once they're reacting (although they can learn that later). Catch them before they lose their focus.

In the end, crazy dogs show some of the most dramatic transformations, from happy, brash, and crashing maniacs to happy, enthusiastic, and focused partners. That's reinforcing to all of us.
Source: http://clickertraining.com

Basic Training for Dogs

2008-04-17T05:46:00.000-07:00

by Carolyn Barney

Are you and your dog attending your first clicker training class?

It's a lot to manage—the clicker, the treats, the toy, the leash, never mind the dog. Sometimes it's hard to remember what the instructor said about reinforcing recalls, what to do if your dog gets up during a “sit-stay,” or what to practice over the coming week.

Carolyn Barney's book is written just for you, supplementing what you learn in class with a quick overview of the theory behind clicker training and a series of homework progressions for basic behaviors. Tracking your daily and weekly progress is easy with the included worksheets, and lots of insider tips make clicker training work better for you and your dog. Beyond providing the novice trainer with the nuts and bolts of clicker training, Clicker Basics for Dogs & Puppies offers a wealth of information about the concerns that most dog owners have: housetraining, crate training, leash training, diet, neutering and spaying, puppy biting, chewing, and fear behaviors. This handy reference is meant to back up what you learn in class and to guide you through the weeks that follow—when your instructor isn't there to point the way.